Fresh Turf Laid Properly on Ground That Has Actually Been Prepared in Kenilworth

Re-turfing is the fastest route from a tired lawn to a good one, and when it is done properly it lasts for decades. When it is done quickly — turf rolled straight over dead grass or last year's builder's rubble — it looks superb for a fortnight, roots into nothing and declines by the first dry week. The difference between those two outcomes is almost entirely in the preparation, which is why our survey and quote spend most of their attention on the ground rather than the grass.

The survey comes first

Every re-turfing job starts with a proper look at the site: how much of the existing lawn is worth keeping, what the soil is like beneath it — sandy, clay, rubble, waterlogged — whether drainage needs sorting before anything green goes down, how the ground lies, and where the light and shade fall. We also ask the practical questions: what the lawn will be used for, whether dogs are part of the household, whether the hose reaches the far corner, and when you actually want to use it. The answers change the plan. A shaded, soggy corner does not need new turf; it needs drainage and a different plan, and we will say so rather than turf over a problem.

Preparation, the part that decides everything

The old lawn is stripped away — turfing over dead grass is the classic false economy, because the decaying layer beneath stops the new roots reaching soil. The ground is then dug over or rotavated to loosen it, large stones and rubble are raked out, and the surface is worked to a fine, level finish with a gentle fall for drainage. Firming matters as much as loosening: the ground is trodden or rolled firm so it will not settle unevenly underfoot, then lightly raked again before laying. Where the soil is poor or exhausted, improvement is added and mixed in — and any soil, feed or conditioner needed is quoted separately so you can see the choice. Rushing this stage is exactly how lawns end up bumpy and patchy within a year, so it takes the time it takes.

Laying the turf itself

Good turf laying has a rhythm: turves are laid in staggered rows like brickwork, butted tightly together edge to edge with no gaps or overlaps, on a day when neither drought nor frost is doing its worst. Joints are staggered away from the lawn's edges and the outer row is laid with the long edge inward so it does not dry and shrink. The whole lawn is then rolled or trodden in to press roots into contact with the soil, watered thoroughly, and left with clear instructions: keep off it for the first couple of weeks, water deeply and regularly through establishment, and let the first few cuts be high and gentle. Turf is a living crop — it has a short shelf life, so delivery is timed to laying day rather than sitting on a pallet for a week.

Honest limits

We do not promise a lawn will stay perfect, because no honest gardener can: drought, dogs, shade and wear all leave their mark eventually, and turf is no more immune than any other grass. Laying season matters too — turf can be laid most of the year in the West Midlands but establishes fastest in autumn and spring, and a summer lawn needs real commitment to watering. And if the underlying problem is drainage or shade, turf is only as good as the ground beneath it, which is why we will sometimes recommend fixing that first and quoting it separately.

How to book

Book by phone or website with the lawn's approximate size and a note of any drainage or shade issues you know about. You pay a booking fee when you book, labour is charged hourly at a rate that depends on how soon you need the visit, and the full cost is quoted and approved before we start — survey first, then preparation and laying as an approved job, with turf and any soil improvement quoted separately.